It’s no wonder our best planting efforts in the spring turned to dust in the fall. Unfortunately, most of us made generous applications of granular fertilizer as we planted. Plants seemed to take off right away, so we thought we were doing the right thing, but we later discovered otherwise.

It’s just that fertilization introduced problems that shouldn’t have happened. For one, by applying fertilizer, we forced plants to start growing almost immediately. The nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium triggered almost continuous cell division, elongation of new shoots, even the lush development of leaves. What didn’t happen was the growing of a vast network of roots to support this plant expansion. Before long, plant growth gradually stopped because there weren’t enough roots to provide the moisture needed for continued growth. Minerals were in short supply, so leaves fell prematurely. In the heat of summer, drought took its toll because roots couldn’t supply the needed moisture to keep plants alive. Often enough, spring plantings weren’t alive by the end of the garden year.

While there were many exceptions to this scenario, plants could have been saved had we understood why it was a mistake to energize newly planted shrubs and trees. Let’s explore why!

Even the worst garden soils contain minerals to support plant life. Weeds manage to grow and reproduce because they absorb minerals from the soil and make the most of semi-drought conditions year-long. Who waters weeds unless it rains?

Soil minerals are always present, but in differing amounts. Clay, hardpan soils always contain generous amounts of aluminum and iron which in one way or another benefit acidic plants (azalea and dogwood, holly and rhododendron). Even without a handful of fertilizer applied to these plants in clay soil, the soil’s acid pH enables plants to absorb small amounts of organic minerals from the soil. Under these conditions, roots grow at a spectacular rate. Not only will they seek and find organic nitrogen in the soil (from lightning), but small concentrations of calcium, copper, magnesium and zinc will be extracted. For the most part, there isn’t a goldmine of primary and secondary minerals in poor soil, but whatever is there will be absorbed by adventitious roots to keep plants growing.

When we set out new shrubs and trees, we need to meet the basic needs of the plants, but nothing more.

First, plants must be planted properly. Past columns have dealt with this scenario in lengthy detail. We no longer dig deep holes as we did for generations, but plants are set so trunks are an inch above the level of the surrounding soil, no more. Beyond this, we must avoid plants settling deeper in the soil by setting out plants on rock-hard soil at the base of planting holes. If soil at the base has been disturbed, plants will settle deeper after planting, causing early roots to be severed.

We must use native soil, the very soil taken up from planting holes. We don’t have to work in copious amounts of organic matter in the planting procedure, only a small amount of sharp sand to improve drainage. Fertilizer is out of the question because healthy plants are able to access organic minerals in the soil as long as soil temperatures remain above 53 degrees.

In the planting process, create a dish around the plant at soil level so rainfall is directed to the roots, not away from them. Conserve moisture by covering the soil with an inch or two layer of chunky mulch (repels water, yet keeps soil cool in the heat of summer). Roots develop through the summer as long as soil temperatures are held below 95 degrees.

Other cultural practices that enhance the survival of newly planted shrubs and trees:

* Application of “liquid Roots” to foster lengthening of new plant roots.